Second Site; AR180Parts.com

I have moved my store to a seperate web site AR180Parts.com.

This has allowed me to add additional security and to accept online payments in the form of BitCoin. I am working on a solution for those wanting to mail payments but for now you can contact me through the new site and we can arrange payment and work out the details. I will be adding another category with used surplus parts as time allows. Thank you for your patience.

The best part is you can now use this to put yourself on a mailing list when the next batch of Fusion “Paperweights” is ready to ship. I have had multiple emails about this and it took me awhile to come up with a solution.

Head over to AR180parts.com and check it out.

Direct link to the Fusion lower is here!

Bullpup BRN-180

I don’t know how I missed this for 6 months but someone built a Bullpup BRN-180.

You can find the original post here!

Does someone have an account on that forum? If so shoot him a message for me and send him here, we need to chat.

He used an electronic trigger with a solenoid to actuate the “regular” trigger.

He has since moved the battery to the rear of the gun.

After seeing this I want to do the same thing and it might just end up bringing my SA-80 airsoft conversion back from the dead.

Airsoft lower with the guts out of a BRN-180 upper.

Interesting AR180 Auction; Gunbroker

Looks like a modified ban state Sterling AR180 is for sale on Gunbroker.com.

https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/849545923

This might be of interest to those of you in ban states but don’t overlook it for those who don’t. It can be rescued!

It appears to have had the folding stock “Fixed” in place and the retention stud removed. The stock is also at a strange angle. The lower could be replaced (I know a guy who has a stripped Sterling lower 😉 and the only hang up would be if the latch plate on the butt stock is missing.

I will probably throw up a bid just to strip it for parts. Of course if I win I will probably try and fix it up as I am a sucker for strays that need a good home.

If you end up with it let me know if you need any parts, I can help with that.

This is the way.

Costa Mesa AR-180’s; Now C & R!

Well at least a few of them. According to the accepted timeline (Click Here) the first 12 AR-180 rifles were made in July 1969. 50 years ago this month.

As time marches on more and more will become Curio & Relics. Time to get your C & R FFL so we can start selling and trading these among each other. Best part, they can be mailed directly to your house!

The real question is, how do we get those who are selling them to agree they now fall under the C & R classification and it would be perfectly legal to ship them to me?

One thing is for sure, in 3 years all Costa Mesa AR-180’s will qualify for C & R status.

I welcome you comments on this. What do you think?

AR180B Gunsmithing; A Cautionary Tale

Good friend of the site Oscar sent me an upper that another gunsmith attempted to remove the barrel on. He got it back from said gunsmith with the message that he was unable to remove the barrel and afterwords he was unable to tighten the barrel back up.

What many do not know is that the AR180B has a unique method of barrel retention and it is not at all obvious.

If we look at a bare trunion you will note that it has a large hole through the middle with a small step.

The barrel for this gun uses an AR15 barrel extension that is turned down and press fit into this trunion. That’s it! Nothing else. Just a press fit.

What happens then when the unsuspecting gun plumber puts a barrel wrench on the barrel and clamps that flat sided receiver in his vise? It makes funny noises and turns the extension in the trunion. Not good. Oscar mentioned that it shot terrible after he got it back and I suggested he send it to me for inspection. It didn’t take long to figure out my initial thoughts were correct.

Now how do I fix it so it is safe to shoot? I want to thank Oscar for being patient with me as I have had his upper for quite some time while I try to figure out what to do.

I settled on a shallow pin. I wanted it to not show unless you were looking for it and still be able to hold everything secure.

Sneaking the Tig torch in between the bosses was challenging but ended up with good penetration after I got the amperage dialed in.

So what is the right way to remove a barrel for the 180 Bravo? Use a modified reaction wrench. Do not put any twisting force on the receiver itself.