As of January 1, 2023 all Costa Mesa AR180’s are C&R eligible!
AR180 production in Costa Mesa CA took place from 1969 to 1972 but since production records no longer exist it was impossible to exactly date a particular gun by serial number. That is no longer the case as all of the 4018 rifles produced fall under the Curio & Relic classification.
A regulation implementing federal firearms laws, 27 CFR § 478.11, defines curio or relic (C&R) firearms as those which are of special interest to collectors by reason of some quality other than is associated with firearms intended for sporting use or as offensive or defensive weapons.
To be recognized as C&R items, firearms must fall within one of the following categories:
Firearms which were manufactured at least 50 years prior to the current date, but not including replicas of such firearms;
Firearms which are certified by the curator of a municipal, state, or federal museum which exhibits firearms to be curios or relics of museum interest; and
Any other firearms which derive a substantial part of their monetary value from the fact that they are novel, rare, bizarre, or because of their association with some historical figure, period, or event.
Personally I think all of the original production AR180’s (Howa & Sterling) should be considered C&R, but I don’t make the rules. For those that don’t know all AR18’s are considered C&R. There is a separate list that you can download at the link above that lists them. The AR18’s were not yet 50 years old when they made it on the list. I’m not sure why they left out the 180’s.
Why does this matter? If you get yourself a C&R FFL license for $30 you can have a C&R weapon shipped right to your door.
My postal carrier delivered my AR18 right to my hot little hands. It was an awesome experience. Now we can trade our 180’s the same way!
Playing with some ideas I have had floating around in my head as well as trying out some a new filament color, Army Green.
For those not familiar, the AR-16 was a prototype designed by Eugene Stoner when he still worked at ArmaLite. The furniture was wood but I always liked the shape of the hand guard. The part that stands out for me is the hand stop and the metal heat shield that sticks out the front.
I decided to give it a go and designed a couple prototypes.
So far I am very pleased with the outcome. The goal will be to creat one hand guard that works for both the long and short versions of the BRN-180. The green might not be your cup of tea but it photographs well. It will certainly be available in basic black.
What do you all think? Leave me your comments below and no this isn’t an April fools joke. I actually posted an article!
I recently discovered ASA filaments and they are producing some outstanding prints.
Shown here is my N1 pistol brace and the Fusion pistol grip. The ASA filament requires more work on the front end but will require less work for you. Many folks who have purchased from me before run their parts as is, so I strive to make them as nice looking as possible.
For those that want to sand and paint there parts to make them look ‘less 3d printed’ they will have another option, acetone vapor smoothing. Exposing ASA to acetone vapors will melt the outer layers together and the parts become smooth as glass. I will be experimenting with this process over the next few weeks and report back my findings.
For those that are interested here is a link to an article that outlines the process.
Reader James put together an Airsoft based SA80 and I thought you would like to see some pics of his process. He also wrote me the following in an email which helps explain a lot of the problems I had trying to put mine together.
James wrote quote;
This is a bitch to put together……
For the upper and the lower. I used a Star Airsoft cause the metal was a bit thicker then the G&G. They all had issues with spacing. Basically… Here’s the deal. You have to use an Airsoft body unless you have a massive press and dies. But the airsoft guns all put the magazine too far forward and too far apart from the trigger pack holes. The airsoft guns are all too wide by about 2mm. And in some guns like the G&G, the mag well is too short. So basically… All uppers and lowers have to quartered and welded back together. I have some images of how I did this and where I too material out. I used the STAR because its was 2mm too long all in the area between the Magazine and the Trigger pack so I could just take out 2mm right down the middle, and the mag well accepted AR15 mags without modification. However, its probably the least like the real steel guns. The G&G and Army bodies of which I have 2 or 3 each could work, but you’ll need 2 guns to make 1 gun cause the length of the airsoft gun is spot on, but you need to remove 2mm from the length between the magazine well and the trigger pack. This is all based on were the trigger is and having an actual trigger rod and a trigger pack. You know the spring guide from the back of the gun will locate the back of the Barrel extension block or trunnion. And then the bolt in battery will basically just pass the Auto sear location.
In AutoCAD i made blocks of the pieces that I had for the real gun. Those I wanted to fit absolutely and I found that those told me where things had to go to make things work. Key points. Spring guide rod. Trigger Pack holes. Length of bolt hold open level to catch magazine follower. HK magazine. Auto Sear location on Trigger pack. Auto sear cam on bottom of bolt. Bolt face with lugs in battery will tell you where the barrel extension goes. Length of trigger bar from trigger to trigger pack. Those all all fixed elements which when placed will show you that airsoft bodies need a shitload of work to make things fit right.
The G&G and Army bodies although they’ll look better need to have 2 airsoft guns each cut into 4 pieces, 1 cross cut and one length wise cut. Because they don’t have the extra length.