I recently discovered ASA filaments and they are producing some outstanding prints.
Shown here is my N1 pistol brace and the Fusion pistol grip. The ASA filament requires more work on the front end but will require less work for you. Many folks who have purchased from me before run their parts as is, so I strive to make them as nice looking as possible.
For those that want to sand and paint there parts to make them look ‘less 3d printed’ they will have another option, acetone vapor smoothing. Exposing ASA to acetone vapors will melt the outer layers together and the parts become smooth as glass. I will be experimenting with this process over the next few weeks and report back my findings.
For those that are interested here is a link to an article that outlines the process.
My e-form 1 took 161 days but it made for an early Christmas Present.
I decided to Form 1 my Nodak Spud NDS-1815 lower. For those of you new to the site this is the lower I designed and licensed to Nodak. I have been working on a prototype butt stock and hand guard for the BRN-180 and my lower. I have been chomping at the bit to put them together but I’ve honestly been a good little boy and resisted temptation.
Now I can put them together and I couldn’t be more excited!
I know it’s been too long since I have posted anything and for that I apologize. I will try to do more in the future.
If you want to help out the site head over to the store at AR180Parts.com
Maybe you will decide to pick up something you like and that will also help keep the lights on around here.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to one and all. Lets hope for a better year in 2021 and stay safe out there.
Reader James put together an Airsoft based SA80 and I thought you would like to see some pics of his process. He also wrote me the following in an email which helps explain a lot of the problems I had trying to put mine together.
James wrote quote;
This is a bitch to put together……
For the upper and the lower. I used a Star Airsoft cause the metal was a bit thicker then the G&G. They all had issues with spacing. Basically… Here’s the deal. You have to use an Airsoft body unless you have a massive press and dies. But the airsoft guns all put the magazine too far forward and too far apart from the trigger pack holes. The airsoft guns are all too wide by about 2mm. And in some guns like the G&G, the mag well is too short. So basically… All uppers and lowers have to quartered and welded back together. I have some images of how I did this and where I too material out. I used the STAR because its was 2mm too long all in the area between the Magazine and the Trigger pack so I could just take out 2mm right down the middle, and the mag well accepted AR15 mags without modification. However, its probably the least like the real steel guns. The G&G and Army bodies of which I have 2 or 3 each could work, but you’ll need 2 guns to make 1 gun cause the length of the airsoft gun is spot on, but you need to remove 2mm from the length between the magazine well and the trigger pack. This is all based on were the trigger is and having an actual trigger rod and a trigger pack. You know the spring guide from the back of the gun will locate the back of the Barrel extension block or trunnion. And then the bolt in battery will basically just pass the Auto sear location.
In AutoCAD i made blocks of the pieces that I had for the real gun. Those I wanted to fit absolutely and I found that those told me where things had to go to make things work. Key points. Spring guide rod. Trigger Pack holes. Length of bolt hold open level to catch magazine follower. HK magazine. Auto Sear location on Trigger pack. Auto sear cam on bottom of bolt. Bolt face with lugs in battery will tell you where the barrel extension goes. Length of trigger bar from trigger to trigger pack. Those all all fixed elements which when placed will show you that airsoft bodies need a shitload of work to make things fit right.
The G&G and Army bodies although they’ll look better need to have 2 airsoft guns each cut into 4 pieces, 1 cross cut and one length wise cut. Because they don’t have the extra length.
These two pistol braces are not compatible in case you were wondering. The tube diameter and bottom lug on the T91 stuff is larger in dimensions.
Next I started work on prototyping a straight 180B style charging handle for the BRN-180.
Made a quick one out of aluminum to check dimensions and function. Works fine with one exception. Charging the weapon with a traditional grip when the dust cover is closed causes the dust cover to hit your hand and somewhat inhibits a full stroke. A change in hand position will be required to eliminate this.
Based off some of my 3D printed tools I use in the shop I designed these Field Strip Stands for use with any AR180, AR180B, or AR18. I am going to offer these through AR180Parts.com soon.
Finally I have been strugling to locate fire control parts for some folks so I decided to try something radical and see if I could adapt a drop-in AR15 trigger into an AR180.
I got it physically located so it hit the firing pin at the right angle and cocks correctly when the bolt carrier cycles. I have no idea if it will actually have enough power to fire a primer. Range testing to follow. Ranges are closed in AZ right now. If it does fire I have to figure out how to get the safety to work.
If this doesn’t pan out I will still be able to use parts of this design to work up a set of anti walk pins for the AR180.
Finally I was able to get to the range last week before they closed to shoot my AR18 for the first time.