Reader Builds SA80

Reader James put together an Airsoft based SA80 and I thought you would like to see some pics of his process. He also wrote me the following in an email which helps explain a lot of the problems I had trying to put mine together.

James wrote quote;

This is a bitch to put together……

For the upper and the lower. I used a Star Airsoft cause the metal was
a bit thicker then the G&G. They all had issues with spacing.
Basically‚Ķ Here’s the deal.
You have to use an Airsoft body unless you have a massive press and dies.
But the airsoft guns all put the magazine too far forward and too far
apart from the trigger pack holes.
The airsoft guns are all too wide by about 2mm. And in some guns like
the G&G, the mag well is too short.
So basically… All uppers and lowers have to quartered and welded back
together. I have some images of how I did this and where I too material
out.
I used the STAR because its was 2mm too long all in the area between the
Magazine and the Trigger pack so I could just take out 2mm right down
the middle, and the mag well accepted AR15 mags without modification.
However, its probably the least like the real steel guns. The G&G and
Army bodies of which I have 2 or 3 each could work, but you’ll need 2
guns to make 1 gun cause the length of the airsoft gun is spot on, but
you need to remove 2mm from the length between the magazine well and the
trigger pack. This is all based on were the trigger is and having an
actual trigger rod and a trigger pack. You know the spring guide from
the back of the gun will locate the back of the Barrel extension block
or trunnion. And then the bolt in battery will basically just pass the
Auto sear location.

In AutoCAD i made blocks of the pieces that I had for the real gun.
Those I wanted to fit absolutely and I found that those told me where
things had to go to make things work. Key points. Spring guide rod.
Trigger Pack holes. Length of bolt hold open level to catch magazine
follower. HK magazine. Auto Sear location on Trigger pack. Auto sear
cam on bottom of bolt. Bolt face with lugs in battery will tell you
where the barrel extension goes.
Length of trigger bar from trigger to trigger pack. Those all all
fixed elements which when placed will show you that airsoft bodies need
a shitload of work to make things fit right.

The G&G and Army bodies although they’ll look better need to have 2
airsoft guns each cut into 4 pieces, 1 cross cut and one length wise
cut. Because they don’t have the extra length.

Hope this is helpfull to you.!

Enjoy the pictures, there are a lot of them!

Bullpup BRN-180

I don’t know how I missed this for 6 months but someone built a Bullpup BRN-180.

You can find the original post here!

Does someone have an account on that forum? If so shoot him a message for me and send him here, we need to chat.

He used an electronic trigger with a solenoid to actuate the “regular” trigger.

He has since moved the battery to the rear of the gun.

After seeing this I want to do the same thing and it might just end up bringing my SA-80 airsoft conversion back from the dead.

Airsoft lower with the guts out of a BRN-180 upper.

Fusion Lowers Are Here! SOLD OUT!

The 80% Fusion Lowers are in stock in very small quantities.

Price is $225 shipped in the CONUS. First come first served. Interested parties should shoot me an email right away to rkelley91 at gmail dot com. Once these are gone it might be some time before the second batch is done.

First batch is spoken for. Thank you! Stay tuned for updates.

Fusion Lowers are Almost Here!

The Fusion lowers are getting close.

These will be the 80% version that will be available through my website. When they arrive I will be testing different jigs to get an idea which ones will work. I can say with confidence that those versions that surround the entire lower and are designed for forged lower will not work without mods.

The magwell area will interfere. Those jigs that attach to the rear of the lower should work.

As well as those popular router jigs.

For those that are looking for a 100% solution I am proud to announce that Nodak Spud has licensed my design and will be producing what they call the NDS-1815. This is the first prototype and the first run should be fully machined and off to anodizing by the end of October. I’m very excited to see this come to fruition.

NDS-1815
NDS-1815

It’s been a long road bringing these to market but I’m sure you will be as happy with these as I am.

AR180B Gunsmithing; A Cautionary Tale

Good friend of the site Oscar sent me an upper that another gunsmith attempted to remove the barrel on. He got it back from said gunsmith with the message that he was unable to remove the barrel and afterwords he was unable to tighten the barrel back up.

What many do not know is that the AR180B has a unique method of barrel retention and it is not at all obvious.

If we look at a bare trunion you will note that it has a large hole through the middle with a small step.

The barrel for this gun uses an AR15 barrel extension that is turned down and press fit into this trunion. That’s it! Nothing else. Just a press fit.

What happens then when the unsuspecting gun plumber puts a barrel wrench on the barrel and clamps that flat sided receiver in his vise? It makes funny noises and turns the extension in the trunion. Not good. Oscar mentioned that it shot terrible after he got it back and I suggested he send it to me for inspection. It didn’t take long to figure out my initial thoughts were correct.

Now how do I fix it so it is safe to shoot? I want to thank Oscar for being patient with me as I have had his upper for quite some time while I try to figure out what to do.

I settled on a shallow pin. I wanted it to not show unless you were looking for it and still be able to hold everything secure.

Sneaking the Tig torch in between the bosses was challenging but ended up with good penetration after I got the amperage dialed in.

So what is the right way to remove a barrel for the 180 Bravo? Use a modified reaction wrench. Do not put any twisting force on the receiver itself.