My e-form 1 took 161 days but it made for an early Christmas Present.
I decided to Form 1 my Nodak Spud NDS-1815 lower. For those of you new to the site this is the lower I designed and licensed to Nodak. I have been working on a prototype butt stock and hand guard for the BRN-180 and my lower. I have been chomping at the bit to put them together but I’ve honestly been a good little boy and resisted temptation.
Now I can put them together and I couldn’t be more excited!
I know it’s been too long since I have posted anything and for that I apologize. I will try to do more in the future.
If you want to help out the site head over to the store at AR180Parts.com
Maybe you will decide to pick up something you like and that will also help keep the lights on around here.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to one and all. Lets hope for a better year in 2021 and stay safe out there.
Reader James put together an Airsoft based SA80 and I thought you would like to see some pics of his process. He also wrote me the following in an email which helps explain a lot of the problems I had trying to put mine together.
James wrote quote;
This is a bitch to put together……
For the upper and the lower. I used a Star Airsoft cause the metal was a bit thicker then the G&G. They all had issues with spacing. Basically… Here’s the deal. You have to use an Airsoft body unless you have a massive press and dies. But the airsoft guns all put the magazine too far forward and too far apart from the trigger pack holes. The airsoft guns are all too wide by about 2mm. And in some guns like the G&G, the mag well is too short. So basically… All uppers and lowers have to quartered and welded back together. I have some images of how I did this and where I too material out. I used the STAR because its was 2mm too long all in the area between the Magazine and the Trigger pack so I could just take out 2mm right down the middle, and the mag well accepted AR15 mags without modification. However, its probably the least like the real steel guns. The G&G and Army bodies of which I have 2 or 3 each could work, but you’ll need 2 guns to make 1 gun cause the length of the airsoft gun is spot on, but you need to remove 2mm from the length between the magazine well and the trigger pack. This is all based on were the trigger is and having an actual trigger rod and a trigger pack. You know the spring guide from the back of the gun will locate the back of the Barrel extension block or trunnion. And then the bolt in battery will basically just pass the Auto sear location.
In AutoCAD i made blocks of the pieces that I had for the real gun. Those I wanted to fit absolutely and I found that those told me where things had to go to make things work. Key points. Spring guide rod. Trigger Pack holes. Length of bolt hold open level to catch magazine follower. HK magazine. Auto Sear location on Trigger pack. Auto sear cam on bottom of bolt. Bolt face with lugs in battery will tell you where the barrel extension goes. Length of trigger bar from trigger to trigger pack. Those all all fixed elements which when placed will show you that airsoft bodies need a shitload of work to make things fit right.
The G&G and Army bodies although they’ll look better need to have 2 airsoft guns each cut into 4 pieces, 1 cross cut and one length wise cut. Because they don’t have the extra length.
The 80% Fusion Lowers are in stock in very small quantities.
Price is $225 shipped in the CONUS. First come first served. Interested parties should shoot me an email right away to rkelley91 at gmail dot com. Once these are gone it might be some time before the second batch is done.
First batch is spoken for. Thank you! Stay tuned for updates.
These will be the 80% version that will be available through my website. When they arrive I will be testing different jigs to get an idea which ones will work. I can say with confidence that those versions that surround the entire lower and are designed for forged lower will not work without mods.
The magwell area will interfere. Those jigs that attach to the rear of the lower should work.
As well as those popular router jigs.
For those that are looking for a 100% solution I am proud to announce that Nodak Spud has licensed my design and will be producing what they call the NDS-1815. This is the first prototype and the first run should be fully machined and off to anodizing by the end of October. I’m very excited to see this come to fruition.
It’s been a long road bringing these to market but I’m sure you will be as happy with these as I am.